Pretty F*cking Good Toast at Machine No. 3, restaurant review, Hackney Central – a masterclass in sourcing

PFGT’s selection of toasts

Machine No. 3 has doubled-down on Peep Show’s Super Hans’ plan for a pub that’ll really “freak ’em out”: not only is there a washing machine in situ, there are several, one in each loo. I’ve not visited for the washing machines though, I’m here for the fruits of another kitchen appliance, the toaster. Pretty F*cking Good Toast is the latest food haven to ‘pop-up’ on Well Street, and – spoiler – it’s an aptly sweary name.

The bar itself has had work done since I’ve last been in; it’s basically been clobbered into slightly more of a laid-back affair, with exposed brickwork and softer lighting on show. It’s certainly a haven for a post-work pint, but I hold off for now, as each of PFGT’s toasts is paired with a Beavertown Brewery can of beer (I swear I’m not being paid by them).

When my old friend Joe arrived, some beef jerky and biltong turned up on cue as well, providing the first clue to the masterclass in sourcing that defines the short and sweet menu. The meats come from Cannon & Cannon, as does the soon-to-follow beer stick. Beer sticks seem to be a recent fad, as I have seen them pop up at many a craft alehouse, but these are still revelatory, with flavour and soft texture one would expect from a business devoted to British cured meat. Kimchi and beets from Vadasz Deli (who has the marvellous handle of “Pickles Man” on Twitter) are of the same high quality.

The Smoked Haddock toast, paired with Beavertown’s Lupuloid.

My main course (although it still seems strange to apply this phrase to toast) was predominantly based on smoked haddock, but overlaid with seaweed butter, burrata (like a creamier mozzarella – and if that description doesn’t sing to all the cheese-lovers out there I don’t know what will) and wood sorrel. The latter has an interesting provenance – in fact, all the garnishes at PFGT are foraged from the Kent countryside by master-forager Miles Irving, who joins up with the PFGT crew regularly for a good old dig around this freshest of food sources.

It all adds up to a hugely indulgent (and filling) bite – the smokiness of the fish fading beautifully into the crunch of the E5 Bakehouse-provided sourdough. Ex of two-Michelin-starred Danish restaurant Noma, chef David Darmanin works a special kind of alchemy with the other ingredients, and the balance is astonishing. The beer pairing, a luminously-canned tropical IPA called Lupuloid, only provides further raptures, the citrus notes ringing out over the haddock like an alcoholic replacement for a lemon or fruit salsa.

After knocking back a couple more Beavertowns, we hit the road, inspired by the idea that bringing together perfectly selected ingredients can liven up the humble slice of toasted bread. Although given how I am in the mornings, maybe dry toast will still have its day too.

Pretty F*cking Good Toast @ Machine No. 3
271 Well Street
E9 6RG
www.machineno3.com / www.pfgt.co.uk

PFGT are holding a Pretty F*cking Good Roast this Sunday 13 November at Dalston’s Three Compasses pub – click here to book a ticket