Dishoom – review

Taste of Bombay? A Dishoom bacon naan roll

There isn’t much that beats a fiery Bloody Mary first thing on a cold rainy morning. By the same stroke there isn’t much worse than a disappointing one.

I’ve had some that tasted like a glass full of watery ketchup, some that tried to be way too clever and many where whoever made it can perhaps only ever have seen a picture of one and tried to make it based on that.

At Dishoom, a Bombay cafe in the heart of Shoreditch, they’re cold and refreshing, the recipe made with tequila instead of vodka, which gives them a bright and zesty flavour. I can advocate having two of them as you peruse a breakfast menu that is bursting with excellence.

I felt compelled to try the bacon naan because I’ve heard a lot of hype. Believe it. Warm, freshly baked soft bread, chargrilled bacon and a chilli tomato jam to sweeten the mouthful and brighten the palate. Cream cheese
and fresh herbs elevates each mouthful to brilliance.

We also tried the akuri: spicy scrambled eggs whacked on ‘fire toast’ – soft white bread chucked on the grill – and served up with an oven-roasted vine of sweet cherry tomatoes. It too was excellent.

‘Cafe’ might be a bit misleading for this sophisticated joint, but does resonate with the relaxed atmosphere of the place. Breezy and open-plan with fans idling on the ceiling, it’s the kind of place you could easily while away a morning watching people streak past on the busy high street outside the window.

If daytimes at Dishoom are tranquil, night time certainly isn’t. I’d seen the dinner menu and was curious to see what it was like so headed back a week later.

You can’t book and there’s a queue in the bar and out of the door practically all night. And that’s no surprise. It’s stylish, the food is exceptionally good and the atmosphere is buzzing. Get down there as soon as possible.

Dishoom Shoreditch, 7 Boundary Street, E2 7JE