Introducing the London Fashion Week five
The Fresh Face
Chinese-born Ryan Lo created a stir last season with his kitsch, woodland-inspired collection in ice-cream shades. Self taught through YouTube videos, the designer returned for AW14, with NEWGEN sponsorship and a wardrobe fit for a cosmic cowgirl. The look was part saloon girl, featuring Lo’s trademark fuchsia tulle and lace, and part preppy schoolgirl. A variation of knitwear, from fluffy crocheted shawls to jumper dresses emblazoned with sheriff stars and a dusky pink floor length knit, made for more commercially viable and wearable items. Long metallic sheer dresses came in heady pink and black zigzag with neat button-up collars; and two-piece quilted skirt suits were reimagined for the younger crowd in shiny metallic shades. The collection exuded playfulness, youth and frivolity, whilst demonstrating Lo’s developing brand identity and good eye. Hat and pistol optional.
The Recent Graduate
Graduating just last year, Louise Alsop bounded into the spotlight this season without apology. And deservedly so, presenting her inaugural collection that was both contemporary and grunge-inspired in striking shades of lavender, mint and black. Alsop demonstrated an aptitude for cut, in the mint green culotte suit, and for graphic prints in sweatshirts. Teenage melancholy was beautifully referenced in the understated slogan ‘loveless’, on tees and sweaters. Frayed below-the-knee skirts and matching oversize tees embraced the tomboy trend and geometric separates brought a feminine touch to futuristic sportswear.
The Dab Hands
Established East Londoners Meadham Kirchhoff evoke anticipation and excitement each season for their bold, costume-inspired collections that promote rebellious femininity. For AW14 the design duo offered their lace-trimmed antidote to the modern streamline aesthetic filling the shops and wardrobes of the fashion-savvy. This season’s collection reinvented preppy youth culture – mini dresses replaced SS14’s baroque corsets; classic tweeds were reinvented for the modern woman, oversized and in pastel shades. A mishmash of references pervaded, from the Queen of Hearts red velvet and disco queen metallic platforms; to Victoriana and gothic noir lace dresses.
The Wild Ones
Design duo Leutton Postle presented a collection in primary colours and monochrome tones for AW14, refining their strong textile and DIY aesthetic with each season. Squiggle and scrawl knit jumpers and wide leg culottes came in punkie black and white. Sophisticated sleeveless dresses with scarlet touches in abstract-patterned knit exemplify the AW14 trend for all shades of red, and a hint of neon orange polo neck reminded us that fashion should be fun. This collection demonstrated the pair’s ability to create playful and wearable pieces that stay true to their unmistakable style.
The Collaborators
Shoreditch-based label Mother of Pearl have made a name for themselves creating capsule collections of art-inspired womenswear. Spring/Summer saw them collaborate with London artist Matt Collishaw, on a bold print collection inspired by nature. For AW14, they returned to floral, but using an understated combination of blooms and brooding shades of scarlet and midnight blue. Wallpaper print suits, and in metallic tones for sweaters and jackets, brought a hint of luxury to everyday garments.