London Collections: Men

Here come the men! New looks aplenty were on show at London Collections: Men

As London brought in the New Year last month, the best of British menswear was celebrated over three days at London Collections: Men.

Once a brief addendum to London Fashion Week, this British menswear showcase goes all out to promote the idea that men too care about clothes, and highlights the importance of this market from a commercial and creative perspective.

Tailoring old-timers Thomas Pink and Gieves & Hawkes shared the schedule with the re-imagined sportswear of one-to-watch Astrid Anderson on day one, while the Topman Showspace in the Old Sorting Office on New Oxford Street witnessed catwalk shows by East London designers James Long and Christopher Raeburn.

Wholesome worker-wear brand YMC (You Must Create), a favourite with East Londoners, presented their AW14 collection on the second day. Citing a “playful and stylish take on the much derided tracksuit” as their starting point, the London brand unveiled a distinctly urban aesthetic, incorporating the current trend for sportswear whilst retaining its dedication to heritage and traditional style. Models sported peaked caps in charcoal grey felt, ribbed beanies, rucksacks and beefy puffa-style jackets.

East London designers again dominated the schedule on the final day, from knitwear trio Sibling to milliner-designer Nasir Mazhar. Stoke Newington-based Christopher Shannon showcased his seventies-inspired collection of leisurewear, including tracksuits and risqué running shorts as well as magenta cagoules, accessorised with Rodney-style bling and football-boot bags. The Central Saint Martins graduate cited the “vibrancy amid melancholy” of the Thatcher era, evident in his emerald green and fuchsia fag packet print sweaters.

In their Dalston studio paired-back sportswear duo Cottweiler presented their latest collection to a keen audience. Designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty have gained notoriety for their innovative textual tracksuits and minimal palette, and began their presentation with video footage of a fully Cottweiler-clad male in the shower. Then entered an army of models sporting polo necks, monochrome tracksuits and transparent sports jackets. They proceeded to position themselves on shower basins, amidst the large crowd of entranced buyers, bloggers and followers.

This season, London Collections: Men gained an air of belonging within the international fashion schedule, building a name for its individuality and the nurturing of emerging designers, from both East London and further afield.