Floyd’s – review

Hake fillet with spiced puy lentils. Credit: Floyds

Ten minutes away from the main cut and thrust of Kingsland Road, Floyd’s is a smart little eatery decked out in clean Scandinavian colours with fresh flowers on the tables, good Margaritas and a great atmosphere.

Swedish head chef and former GQ cover model Konrad Lindholm’s eye for colour and taste translates from the sea green walls and brightly-coloured glass lanterns to the dishes emerging from the kitchen at the back.

The ham hock terrine is probably the prettiest thing I have ever seen on a plate, and it tasted more elegant and summery than any hock really has the right to.

Sweet apricot and fennel were pressed in with the pink of the ham against wafers of dark rye bread. Meanwhile bright green capers and a well-judged acidic dressing cut cleanly through the rich flavour of the meat.

There were flower-like purple leaves scattered over it and, frankly, it looked too beautiful too eat, but eat it I did, and it tasted as beautiful as it looked.

Floyd’s does seasonal modern European food, with nearly half the dishes suitable for vegetarians without leaning on unimaginative stuffed mushrooms and halloumi stalwarts.

The space is relaxed and comfortable enough to feel like you’re sitting down for supper in your friend’s kitchen, except there are people bringing you plates of great food and drinks.

The Barnsley chop could have been a bit heavy for the summer, but the meat was good and succulent and the spring greens came in long wide ribbons, adding a needed bitterness to the smooth sweet potato and caraway mash.

The hake was perfect, with nice crispy skin and just-cooked juicy meat on the fish.

The roughly chopped tapenade added a nice layer of texture and salty flavour, and a rich ratatouille of roasted veg gave it an earthy substance.

In terms of desserts, the chocolate, almond and orange cake was gorgeous. It had a grown-up taste with the tangy fruit melting into dark, bitter chocolate and lightened with a spoonful of crème fraiche.

We also had a lovely summery little lemon posset that was cool and tart, but not sour, and topped with plump dusky blueberries.

Starters: £6+
Mains: £10+
Desserts: £5+

89 Shacklewell Lane
020 7923 7714
Monday – Friday: 11am – 11pm
Saturday & Sunday: 9am – 11pm