London Collections review
London Collections MEN SS2014. Photographs: Christopher Dadey.
London Collections: Men returned in June, for its third season as the voice-piece of British menswear. The overarching message this time round was that a fresh, youth-driven streetwear aesthetic is fast defining British menswear, and with good reason. A majority of young menswear designers are creating clothes for themselves and their friends for a generation and lifestyle that deems expensive and restrictive tailored suits irrelevant. This ethic, combined with an exploration of masculinity, were prevalent themes among the numerous East London designers taking centre stage at LC:M SS 14.
The British Fashion Council Showspace hosted Astrid Andersen’s debut catwalk show on the opening day, with Andersen exploring her crystal taupe vision of menswear and a ‘sports-urban’ aesthetic. The Danish designer, who splits her time between London and Copenhagen, extracted meaning from the power and beauty of crystals, an analogy perhaps, for modern day masculinity itself.
This collection saw the subtle shades, and finishes and shapes of gemstones incorporated into tracksuit bottoms and tunic tops. Taupe and algae greens were prevalent tones; sheer, almost iridescent sports vests and trousers were printed in a collage of craggy irregular crystals. Andersen’s fascination with precious stones and their association with superstition, empowerment and lucky mascots, ties in with her ongoing interest in sportswear, which was also referenced in the heavy branding, use of nylon, velour and neoprene; all-in-all, making for an absorbing combination of nature and artifice.
The highly anticipated MAN show – a collaboration between Topman and Fashion East – followed, and the three young designers picked for this season demonstrated their craft in fantastically different collections, involving tie dye, teddy bears and tailoring.
Bobby Abley’s collection encompassed the young designer’s fondness for the playful and fetishistic. Models pounded the catwalk wearing skewiff toy crowns and Abley’s signature teddy bear print, like an army of scowling seven-year olds throwing a tantrum at a birthday party. The imaginative use of baby pink and murky orange, with the bold black bear motif, packed a punch, making for a well-tuned exercise in brand identity and the reimagining of menswear. Alan Taylor’s collection of charcoal and dusty pink suits looked positively conservative in comparison, but in fact celebrated the possibilities of contemporary tailoring.
However, it was Craig Green who stole the MAN show with his meteoric tie-dye explosion. The designer, who is based at a studio in Bethnal Green, cited his inspirations as chaos and illusion, but the result was far from this, instead making for a highly accomplished and well-honed collection, defined by multiple versions of a densely layered look- comprising of short trousers, vest, shirt, jacket and bucket-hat- all in the same dramatic fabric, whether that be deep navy or psychedelic fluro. There was both uniformity and rebellion, beautifully rounded off by giant sculptural meteors in place of the models’ faces.
On the final Day of LC:MEN, Christopher Shannon showcased his commercially viable and aesthetically seductive collection for SS14, inspired by the super clubs of his hometown Liverpool. Comprised largely of the shirt-and-short combo, played out in neon shades of PU fabrics and coordinated floral, Shannon recreated the ‘anything goes’ philosophy of the club culture. He is also another designer playfully redefining notions of masculinity.
Rounding things off, with a hazy club-like bang, was Nasir Mazhar, the Dalston milliner turned fashion designer. Mazhar’s debut catwalk show captured his recent transformation from headwear and accessories designer to an all-rounder. His heavily logo-emblazoned streetwear was sported by big, athletic men, in a heady combination of baby pink tracksuits, boxing headgear and Mazhar’s signature caps and backpacks.
The young and rebellious reigned strong this season, drawing on the reality and experiences of their day to day lives (for many) in East London; inspired by the sub cultures, street culture, counter culture and art that surrounds them and demanding the rest of the world pays attention.
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