Fields – review

Fields of gold. Photograph: Eleonore de Bonneval

The Richmond Road eatery triumvirate of Lardo, Fields Café, and Unpackaged seemed to spring up near-simultaneously and so it feels impossible not to draw comparisons.

Fields is nestled in between its neighbors both physically and figuratively – its menu is a little more serious than the Mediterranean frivolity of its delicatessen-cum-café neighbour, Unpackaged, to the West. And it isn’t as heavyweight as critically lauded cured-meats and pizza purveyor Lardo, which shadows it to the East.

The distinguishing quality that sets Fields apart from its adjoining competitors is its well-crafted breakfast menu. Forgivingly served until 5pm for the lazy, the late-risers and the desperately hung-over, it offers subtle twists on well-worn classics at excellent value.

Eggs benedict, that bourgeois staple, is a snip at £4.50 and Fields’ eponymous signature breakfast delights with its development of the full English without breaking the £6 barrier. As the weather begins to brighten, an al fresco seat and a double espresso amidst the hubbub of Richmond Road can shake the haziest of hangovers.

Although it is very much a permanent fixture, Fields has the befuddled charm of a wood-paneled pop-up that’s been hastily erected in the shell of an industrial art studio, and its lunch menu is suffering from something of an identity crisis, but all is redeemed by its selection of burgers.

The Fat One (“not for the faint-hearted” warns the menu) on paper sounds like a monstrous tower of indulgence with its fried egg, bacon, melted mature cheddar and onion rings, but in the flesh the addition of mint to its homemade ground beef-burgers and the whole-meal buns lend a lightness of touch.

In short, while its adjacent culinary sirens sing very loudly indeed, Fields is worth a punt if you’re after a sassy brunch without tucking into your savings.

Fields is at 195-205 Richmond Road, E8