Mother Clucker at the Shacklewell Arms – review

Mother Clucker offers classic Southern soul food like fried chicken in a bun

Our grossly unscientific test has established that Coop’s Place in New Orleans is the best place for fried chicken on the planet, but you have to change planes in Texas to get there, so anyone who is short of the whopping air fare or concerned about their carbon footprint could do worse than to walk to the Shacklewell Arms instead.

Food truck and pop up outfit Mother Clucker has set up shop in the kitchens of this most hipsterish of hangouts, and their feelgood grub certainly keeps good company with the beer. All the chicken is free range too.

The business specialises in yummy Southern soul food and takes its cue from the ever growing fashion for quality versions of what used to be termed junk food. Where Byron went with burgers, so the likes of Mother Clucker could follow with the humble fried chicken wing, leaving Colonel Sanders sputtering into his popcorn pieces.

Alongside chicken platters and cheesy fries – another Louisiana favourite, but served here with lemongrass and chillies – the menu offers specials including a vegetarian bean strew inspired by creole cooking but complete with oriental Bak Choi.

Mother Clucker’s residency at the Shacklewell Arms was initially scheduled to wind up at the end of July but has been extended to run into August, so they must be doing something right.