Mr Buckley’s – review

Mr Buckley's: 'It isn't just good, it's great'

Rejoice citizens, for a new restaurant has opened in Hackney that isn’t pushing a gimmicky dining experience down our throats!

The food is European-style with a handful of choices for each course.

There are all day brunches and small sharing mains for dinner so the greedy among us don’t have to narrow their choices, which is lucky as I would have happily ordered anything on its seasonal and locally-sourced menu.

Mr Buckley’s isn’t good, it’s great – and I urge you to drop in for dinner or a drink as soon as you can.

The cocktails are for grown-ups, with plenty of booze and none of the sissy syrups plaguing many of the city’s watering holes.

We had a Rhubarb Flip, with enough fumes coming off it to light a match on and a bright and zingy Gin Fizz, which were both excellent. I’ve heard the Bloody Madison with bacon-infused bourbon is pretty good too.

We started with salt cod brandade pressed into a glass jar and topped off with a light layer of saffron oil, spicy quindilla peppers and pieces of toast to scoop it out with.

Alongside that, some bright green guacamole made with gorgeously ripe avocado, flakes of crispy bacon and flatbread.

A highly-seasoned crispy-skinned poussin with fresh potato salad crunching with celery, almonds and pickled onions was so good I could lie in it, setting the bar for the mains.

We also ordered what might be the world’s most indulgent comfort food – lobster mac’n’cheese, which comes out in a beautiful stack of pink and orange pasta oozing cheese, with nice fat bits of seafood.

For me the winner was a tiny pot of tender ox cheek and apricot stew with sage dumplings. It was glorious and I was furious that I had to share it. My friend bit her cheek eating, it was so good.

I’d say at £17.50 the cheapest wine and £5 for a beer is quite expensive, but not for London particularly and it’s all very good. The drinks menu is robust, with Brut and Sancerre rubbing shoulders with good ales and beers and a range of cognacs.

Though rich, the portions are small so you can’t make excuses to miss dessert.

We picked basil pannacotta and were rewarded with cool and creamy mouthfuls sharpened with the light spring-like flavour of the herb.

Salted caramel continues to be popular in the city, here served up in three delicious scoops of ice cream topped with crunchy nests of fresh honey comb.

Mr Buckley’s, with its sophisticated flavours, excellent cooking and seasonal, local menu is a refreshing new addition to East London’s eateries.

The place itself is cosy with hangover-friendly low lighting, super people and a laid back atmosphere that makes it feel busy even when it’s not, good for low-key dinners, all day brunches or classy nightcaps.

Small plates: between £2 and £8
Snacks and sides: £3.50
Cocktails: around £8

Mr Buckley’s
277 Hackney Road
E2 8NA