MEATmission – review

Carnivore's dream: massive portions await diners at American-style joint

The MEAT restaurant family is fleshing out its ranks with a sassy new eatery in Hoxton – this time putting the brand’s distinctive stamp on a mouth-watering menu of soul food in a converted Christian mission church.

Jammed pretty much every night, MEATmission is dark and busy inside with a beautiful panel of brightly stained glass hanging over the entire room. Huge back-lit images of bears in chain mail and stags in doublets looking out over the tables only increase the sense that you are there for some sort of religious ritual. You can pitch up and order a cocktail while you wait for a seat or book a table in the quieter dining room next door while massive portions of food are wheeled out to diners.

We started with a plate of battered pickles – long thin oblongs of crispy golden batter dipped in blue cheese sauce, which were surprisingly light and wickedly tasty. Rarely have I seen such a spectrum of decadence on a menu. But biblical over-indulgence is the point at MEATmission and you’d better come hungry.

There are burgers labelled everything from the Dead Hippie to the Dirty Chicken, as well as chilli dogs, pastrami dogs and currywurst, covered in onions, sauces and other garnishes. We had the buffalo chicken burger, which was good and juicy.

Other specialities include the Roast Beef Sundae – exactly what you’re imagining: layers of garlic mash, meat, onions and horseradish festooned with a cherry tomato.

Most of the food is good for sharing. Dishes arrive on plastic trays – there are no plates – with fat rolls of kitchen towels on hand to mop up the debris. We had a good plateful of chilli fries creaking under the weight of mince meat, cheese and pickles and Monkey Fingers – hot sauce marinated and battered chicken – are also excellent.

You can pick your poison from a two-page spread of cocktails including everything from the fruity Hoxton Fizz, or tequila-based Fallen Angelita to a Louisiana Jam with Southern Comfort, mint, lemon and apricot jam. I liked the selection of Slushes for Lushes, with drinks like the passion fruit cream, mango and vodka So Lairy, or the Largerita, but steered clear of the noxious-sounding Drinx For Drunx as it was a school night.

At the moment there are no desserts, probably a blessing in retrospect, but a ‘Sinners’ pudding menu is in the pipeline.

In summary, if you’re hoping to get away with a salad option, don’t bother. Otherwise this is a great place for casual, inexpensive food and a fun night out.

MEATmission
14 – 15 Hoxton Market,
N1 6GH
Mon-Sat 12pm to 12am; Sunday 12pm to 10pm
020 7739 8212