A new lease of life for the Clapton Hart

Across from the pond: the Clapton Hart. Photograph: James Laird

Only a particularly foolish reviewer lets readers in on his favourite haunts, writes James Laird. Chris Polpe’s endorsement of the wonderful but already oversubscribed Margot’s in Padstow means he will probably never enjoy another meal there for the rest of his life. Which is why my bistro of choice in Paris may only be publicly announced on my deathbed.

So the review of this month’s boozer comes with a health warning that it is not my favourite drinking hole in Clapton. To be fair, the paint is still far too wet for it to even come under consideration. But it is a very good pub indeed and one that should elicit much enthusiasm among E5’s thirstier types, not least the traditionalists normally maligned by my pen.

Renovated and reopened only a few weeks ago, The Clapton Hart is doing a stellar job of shaking off its former unsavoury reputation. It started life in 1722 as The White Hart, and enjoyed a period of infamy as the Chimes Bar in the early noughties, when a number of killings outside the pub and neighbouring nightclub contributed to the area’s designation as Hackney’s murder mile.

The new incarnation is far from life-threatening. In fact, the vibe is spot on: not as lamely family-friendly as Church Street, nor as arguably hip as Broadway Market. The clientele is pleasingly diverse, a reflection of the pub’s ability to absorb the better aspects of the area’s gentrification without overtly trying to cater to it.

It’s the kind of place you could safely take mum without risking accusations of a deviant lifestyle, while grandpa would surely appreciate the self-consciously old-school atmosphere.

The Hart is first and foremost an ale pub. Punters choose from eight regularly rotated cask options, served with care by an eclectic, welcoming group of bar staff. On my visit, one chap looked like he had just wandered out of an Abercrombie & Fitch shoot while another was a well-washed mosh pit type.

Local favourites from East London Brewery and Redemption are proudly displayed, alongside other offerings, including a particularly yummy pint of Mary Hoppins from West Yorkshire’s Ilkley Brewery. A light, easy-drinking ale perfect for the recent bout of fine weather, it boasts a subtle citric sweetness and goes down a treat across the board.

Inevitably, my inner Giles Coren has a few minor quibbles. While the cask beers are excellent, quality options on the keg front are few and far between. I can’t help but think that a pub like this would make an absolute killing selling Brewdog’s Punk IPA, Meantime’s London Lager, or something similar.

And what’s with the dead animal fetish? Whichever design consultants are telling every new establishment in east London that taxidermy is the new exposed brick have a lot to answer for. Thankfully, I only counted one piece of the garish tat.
Finally there is the location, smack on the depressingly utilitarian Lea Bridge Roundabout. But at least the surroundings should deter the kind of posers that currently flock to London Fields.

For me, the real test will come when a full menu is rolled out. After all, man cannot live by ale alone, even if some of us do enjoy the challenge. In my experience, the Antic Collective group is a mixed bag food-wise and The Hart will be an interesting indicator of the gastronomic success of its latest acquisition binge, which also includes the cunningly named Farr’s School of Dancing in Dalston.

In the meantime, if you hanker after a good ale served by friendly staff in a convivial atmosphere, the Clapton Hart ticks all the boxes.