The Fox – a cunning addition to the gastro boozer scene

Finely-balanced: burger and bun. Photograph: James Laird

You don’t have to be a hardcore hop-head to appreciate the rise of London’s craft beer scene, though the positive nature of recent developments shouldn’t disguise the risks associated with its mercurial growth. Chief among these is the perversion of the craft beer bar, which in the wrong hands is in danger of going the way of the gastro pub.

Less scrupulous publicans may be tempted to start using the craft beer label as a marketing ploy, offering an interesting IPA here and a Japanese porter there in order to conceal wider price hikes.

Fortunately, the latest addition to Hackney’s bespoke drinking scene, The Fox, has its heart in the right place and is a textbook example of what a quality public house should be. Beer is the primary concern and is of the highest order. While supping microbrews and quality ales is never going to be the cheapest way to get Brahms and Liszt, it is unquestionably enjoyable and Haggerston’s newest drinking den confidently caters to a wide cross-section of punters.

Less-adventurous types will be tempted by the Bernard Belgian lagers, while traditionalists will savour the eight regularly changing cask options, which include real ciders as well as ales. Those operating in the middle of the spectrum will appreciate the keg range, which includes favourites like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale alongside a rare lightly carbonated bitter — from the Harviestoun Brewery in Scotland — and a classic wheat beer from Derbyshire’s Thornbridge Brewery.

The fridges are similarly well-considered and boast a number of beers rarely seen on these shores. The selection of U.S. imports is particularly imperious: IPA from Hawaii’s Maui Brewing Company, amber ale from Oregon’s Caldera Brewing Co., and offerings from California’s Bear Republic Brewing Co. will tempt even the most jaded palate. All are priced fairly, if a bit dearer than mass-produced beer.

Food isn’t normally the main attraction at a craft beer bar, but at The Fox it’s much more than an afterthought. Starters and snacks are keenly priced — most fall around the six or seven pound mark — but are amply portioned and, as befits the convivial drinking atmosphere, great for sharing.

The pork bites are a case in point: juicy chunks of slow-cooked belly with a light tangy dressing, the perfect sized to chomp on while sharing a beer with friends. Vegetarians can’t claim to be hard done by: mushrooms and gorgonzola on freshly baked bread sounds delicious as well.

The beef burger also gets close to full marks — always a good test of any kitchen, this is a highly impressive specimen. Topped with juicy back bacon and well-textured cheese, the meat is noticeably high quality and cooked with care and appreciation by the chef. Still pink inside and encased in a sturdy bun, it soon becomes evident that juices dribbling down the chin are inevitable rather than optional. The rocket salad is an unnecessarily gentrified touch, but a minor quibble at most.

A fine balance of quality and accessibility, modernity and tradition, The Fox can already count itself among the upper echelons of Hackney boozers. Staff are enthusiastic and friendly, surroundings simple but comfortable, and the atmosphere smart without being at all pretentious. It all bodes well for the continued vitality of the local drinking scene.

Openings like The Clapton Hart this month now have an idea of the standard they should aspire to, while old favourites like The Jolly Butchers will know they can’t afford to take their eye off the ball. This Fox is one very clever little creature indeed.

The Fox
372 Kingsland Road
Hackney
E8 4DA