Chef Elliott Lidstone at the Empress

Trading the most prestigious job at a Michelin-starred restaurant in an idyllic Berkshire village for the challenges of reinventing an urban kitchen might not seem like a normal career move, but then Elliott Lidstone is no ordinary chef and Victoria Park is far from a typical corner of London.

More importantly for Lidstone and his newly transformed Lauriston Road eatery the Empress, it is one of the epicentres of Hackney’s thriving food scene.

This enviable location is exploited to the full, with meat coming from master butchers and neighbours The Ginger Pig and all manner of things aquatic from expert fishmongers Jonathan Norris across the road. The E5 Bakehouse rounds off an impressive list of local suppliers, delivering fresh sourdough (by bicycle, of course) on a daily basis. The quality of produce is evident in Lidstone’s cooking, which is modern European.

Our meal began with some of their nibbles. Crispy pigs’ ears, served with a smooth apple sauce, were like refined pork scratchings: moist and chewy rather than dry and crunchy, they maintained the crucial saltiness that is the key to a good drink accompaniment. Ham croquettes were of a similarly high standard. Specked with prosciutto and oozing  Béchamel sauce, they were equal to the offerings of some of the capital’s finest tapas bars, even those of the mighty Morito.

A starter of pearl barley and cauliflower risotto was a particularly thoughtful vegetarian option. The risotto was appropriately creamy, while the pearl barley offered sufficient bite, and spring onions perked up the taste buds. Crunchy hazelnuts and crispy fried shallots finished the dish and added extra layers of texture.

A main of slow-braised shoulder of lamb garnished elegantly with succulent monk’s beard was similarly enticing. The meat was meltingly tender and wild garlic added a zesty bite appropriate for spring. Capers boldly dotted the bulgar wheat base.

To finish, a pudding of baked cheesecake was surprisingly dense and really benefitted from the accompanying pieces of blood orange.

This was the food of a confident chef. Subtle flourishes abounded, and there was much to inspire a return – a pairing of mackerel and rhubarb, for instance, and a starter of bone marrow with snails.

The attention to detail and local focus extended to the drinks selection, with quality beers alongside an eclectic wine list that oenophiles will want to take note of. A small selection of ice-cold sherries rounds things out.

Service was attentive without being intrusive and the atmosphere was hugely family friendly, with a sizeable contingent of under-10s in particularly fine vocal form on a Saturday lunchtime. Affordable but still special – very few main courses pop over the £15 mark while weekend brunches are a steal at £7.50 and under.

It’s refreshing how Lidstone and owner Michael Buurman have taken the predominantly European concept of relaxed and affordable local dining and given it a firm British spanking. Thankfully they buck the irritatingly hip ‘no reservations’ trend as well because with food this good, who wants to wait?

For more information go to The Empress.

Spots and stripes at XO

Added to the current trend for gallery/café/bar-at-nights is XO, which opened on Thursday (29 March) to the sounds of Andrew Weatherall and Raf Daddy.

Having a somewhat empty gallery room upstairs, and a crowded club in the high-ceiling basement, the team behind XOYO decided to use the empty space and open new cultural hub, XO.  For five nights a week you can now enjoy comedy, arts, film and live music, whilst enjoying one of XO’s bespoke drinks.

With just a minute’s walk from Old Street Station, it’s easy enough to find. XO really feels more like a gallery room than a bar whilst the window shutters are still open. The DJ booth next to the bar counter doesn’t change that impression. But once night falls, the staff close the shutters to the floor-to-ceiling windows, transforming the place into a proper bar.

The interior, designed by East London creative Camille Walala, seems somewhat circus-inspired, with geometric prints and black and white stripes painted all over the place. The real circus feeling however, sets in when eating the extremely delicious White Chocolate Popcorn – a nice nibble with a perfect balance between sweet and salty that makes you forget all about real food. Quite dangerous when having a couple of drinks.

At £7 a cocktail, you’d be advised to choose carefully. Their XO Royale – prosecco mixed with blackcurrant and pommerac – is worth trying, as is the fruity cocktail Passiflora. They also serve beer from London breweries.

Don’t be worried about finding someplace to sit – XO has recognised the no-seats-problem in XOYO, and offers many chairs and couches, both by the bar and on the floor. And before it gets dark, it’s quite nice to have a drink and sit down by one of the round tables next to one of the two windows.

But the real fun starts later in the evening. XO is the perfect place to mingle – and the worst place for a first date. The open space in front of the long bar counter fills up easily, and the music – mostly electronic – gives the atmosphere that extra tastiness, but without intruding conversations.

XO is quite a small venue, and is a great bar to start your evening, with decent cocktails and good opportunities to mingle. And with XOYO in the basement, the opening of XO was indeed a necessary step.

XO
32-37 Cowper Street
EC2A 4AW
020 7490 1198

As his assistant looks on, chef Hyson Khalid shows two of his students how to master the art of cooking. Photograph: James Laird

With all the exceptional street food, pop-up ventures and ethnic eateries, Hackney’s gastronomes are hardly a neglected bunch. But we can always become even more spoilt for choice, as two exciting new ventures prove. Most recently, the Open Kitchen in Hoxton hosted the trial run of the Honey Drizzle cooking school.

Set in the restaurant’s spacious, professional-standard teaching kitchen, the enterprise is led by Hyson Khalid, a Cordon Bleu chef who has worked in the kitchens of Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay.

The twist is that Khalid is also a fully qualified personal trainer who combines gourmet cooking lessons with fitness and weight loss advice. Judging by the opening night, there is no reason why Honey Drizzle should not become a success: the facilities are excellent and Khalid is an engaging personality who caters to all ability levels with gusto.

Relative novices would not be intimidated by his approachable menu, which featured cumin-spiced chicken with fruity couscous and baba ghanoush on the night, while more experienced amateur cooks will obviously benefit from working closely with such a skilled professional. Launching in full later in the spring, it’s certainly one to watch out for as we try to get in shape for the summer.

Honey Drizzle: 07786 438 819

Look for the label: the Marine Stewardship Council logo

Hackney Friends of the Earth believe something positively fishy is happening in the borough.

We have been trawling for information about fishmongers, fish & chip shops and suppliers to find out if sustainable fish are available in the local area. Standards that are of utmost importance consider freshness, a Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) label or approval and safe non-destructive catching methods.

Why is it so important to eat sustainable fish? Commercial fish stocks, such as cod, herring, haddock and tuna, are facing depletion as a result of demand and general malpractice of overfishing and use of destructive fishing methods.

According to MARINET, “nearly 90% of all commercial fish stocks are over-fished in European seas, and a third of these stocks are now facing commercial extinction.”

There are a number of local options and outlets that sell sustainable fish produce: think of it as a combination of supporting local businesses and ethically-sourced produce.

These outlets include:

Fin and Flounder
A fish shop with a mission to reinstate the reality of a local London fishmonger in Broadway Market. A rigorous fish sourcing policy is outlined on their webpage, definitely one worth a visit.

Billingsgate Market
Based in Tower Hamlets is a stone’s throw away making it is easy to buy fish straight from the wholesaler. Sustainable fish on sale range from mackerel caught in Hastings to sardines caught in Cornwall and more.

The Fishery
‘More than just another London fish shop,’ it can be found on Stoke Newington High Street. The Fishery is a family owned fishmongers and seafood supplier offering sustainable fish that has been Freedom food labelled – assessed by strict RSPA standards. In addition to this service, the business also run a restaurant called Suttons & Sons across the road selling traditional fish and chips amongst other seasonal seafood dishes.

Fresh Fish Shop
On Morning Lane, close to Hackney Central station, a fishmongers shop selling fish caught in Bristol.

Fish House
Near Victoria Park, a contemporary fish and chip take away and sit-in restaurant offering fresh fish that is in season according to MCS standards.

Ethical shopping in supermarkets can be difficult but thanks to internal and external pressures, it is possible to find out whether fish bought in supermarkets is sustainable or not through labelling.

Supermarkets within the Hackney area that supply accredited fish are Morrisons, The Cooperative, Sainsbury’s and Tesco. Just remember to look at the labels to check accreditations. Not all supermarkets offer the same certified fish! Happy fishing!

The laid back, friendly venue at 118 Lower Clapton Road which is set to open its doors on 29 March is the brainchild of a group of Clapton residents: “We were looking for a project/business we could set up in the neighborhood as we felt there was a space for new ventures”, says Joe Johnston, who works in a local primary school by day.

Joe relates how he and a friend had the idea for the bar when they were forced out of their shared house on Powerscroft Road and saw the empty unit: “We got our friends together, pooled our resources, borrowed some funds and signed the lease on the premises in November.”

Riley’s started life as a Christmas tree shop the following month. The proceeds from the sales went towards doing up the bar: “It’s an ongoing project and we’re doing it all ourselves. In the group there are blacksmiths, wood workers and various other designers, makers and doers, but having enjoyed the success of our two recent openings we look forward to going full time as soon as possible.”

The Riley’s team is keen to build relations with the local community: “We’ve been listening to what people want from a little bar in the area and are really excited about serving the people of Clapton and any people passing through our little corner of the world.”

“We aim to provide a nice, quiet place for people to meet and hang out. We’re keeping our mission simple at the moment and are looking to serve good quality (and where possible locally sourced) teas, coffee, beers, ales, wines and some snacks and sandwiches in pleasant surroundings.”

Riley’s Bar and Social Club
118 Lower Clapton Road E5 0QR
@rileysofclapton

Photographs to follow.

Pea Soup magazine took a stall at the market one Saturday, selling their namesake pea soup

Hackney Homemade launched their new Saturday food market last month (18 February). Held a strawberry’s hull from Hackney Central station in the gardens of the St John at Hackney church, the new venture is now looking forward to its third weekend of trading and is proving a popular addition to the local market scene.

Featuring a variety of artisan producers selling digestible wares from fruit and veg to meat and wild game as well as breads, cakes, and chutneys, the market’s diverse product range offers something for all tastes and pocketbooks.

Jane MacIntyre, one of the Hackney Homemade organisers, is enthusiastic about the market’s launch and the producers who are signing up: “Homemade Food was a great success. Lush Mush from the Great British Bake Off sold out of cupcakes and it was generally agreed that Alley Katsu dishes up the best curries this side of Tokyo.”

She added that one of the market’s main aims was accessibility, and that it endeavoured to become more than simply a place to buy food: “From the point of view of running it, we try very hard to make it as easy as possible to have a stall and are setting up a market trader’s training day for just £25 or free to those out of work.

“We work very hard to make it a community market, giving free stalls to charities, and have the luxury of space so can have buskers and entertainers under the trees. The idea was to create a local market that is as inclusive as possible. Markets are the perfect opportunity for local people to come together.”

Those opting for more immediate gratification are similarly spoilt for choice, with a variety of stalls selling delicious ready-to-eat food, from tried and trusted favourites like burgers and sausages to more specialist fare like homemade pasta with slow-cooked sauces from The Hungry Wolf.

Yet it was the burritos from Chula Fused Foods that came closest to stealing the show. Offering a welcome twist on a street food classic, Vinny Patel injects the classic wrap combination of rice, beans, and lovingly-nurtured meat or veg with an Indian kick, flavouring his rice with mustard seeds, currying his kidney beans, and offering a chicken keema that competes with the best carnitas in terms of flavour and would not be out of place in the capital’s best curry houses.

Vegetarians, too, were catered to in style: his subtly spiced methi paneer was far from an ethical also-ran and a more than welcome change from the usual meat-free burrito treatment of a few roasted peppers and some extra guacamole.

Unfortunately, Chula Fused Foods is unsure at present whether it will return to the market, which is all the more reason for locals to come out in force to support their newest market. Street pizza mavericks Homeslice have returned to home turf ahead of schedule, so it’s clear that Hackney citizen power works.

It’s not just the punters and organisers who are enjoying the Hackney Homemade food market. David, from pig-specialist Monmouthshire farm, The Parson’s Nose, reflected positively on his early experiences of the market: “This was a good start. We had a positive day and were well received. In terms of comparison, this was about the middle of the markets we attend. Others are definitely not as good. We were pleased to be there.”

He added that, unlike certain park cafes, his stall would be adjusting its product range in line with the demands of a diverse population:“The most notable point for us was the complete mix of folks attending and we will adapt our offerings to suit all kinds of pockets in future. We hope to introduce a few more produces so there’s something for everyone who attends.”

Those who find the Broadway Market vibe occasionally stifling will be especially pleased with the spacious lay out of Hackney Homemade Food and its laid-back nature – there’s no danger of tripping over a discarded bottle of craft beer or designer pooch here. As it should be, it really is all about the way that the shared experience of good food can help to build a greater sense of community. And for sure, the food at the new Hackney Homemade market is very good indeed.

Musical flavours: The Strongroom Bar and Kitchen

We thought it was high time we had a bit of rock ‘n roll in our lives, writes Jonathan Lake, so where better than the Strongroom Bar and Kitchen in Shoreditch.

This local joint has been home of the Strongroom recording studios since the 1980s, and is a ‘must visit’ destination for music artists and their fans from around the world.

The lunchtime menu is pretty expansive and we eventually plumped for a few dishes that spanned the spectrum of choice.

A stunning halloumi, orange and pomegranate salad was a sight to behold, reminding me how the French like to say that ‘we eat with our eyes’ (though don’t try that at home). The halloumi was perfectly cooked and the sweetness of the cheese was balanced by the acidity of the orange.

Duck pancakes were everything they’re meant to be: crispy and darkly sweet, served with a pile of chopped spring onion and cucumber.

Handmade crab tortellini with a cherry tomato and chili sauce also proved delicious. The pungent sweet crabmeat was in abundance as was the sauce. Chili lovers may not be so happy with the lack of red hot chili peppers.

Bear in mind this venue is more for gigs than eats, so check out what’s on before you go.

Three ate like pop stars for a bargain price of just under £30.

The Strongroom Bar and Kitchen
120-124 Curtain Road
EC2A 3SQ
020 7426 5103

Ben Denner and his Lucky Chip cuisine can be found at Netil Market on Saturdays. Photograph: Hackney Citizen

From the streets of Cairo to a cathedral in London, 2011 was a year of revolutions and rebellions.

And, always evolving rapidly, the gastronomic world was not to be left behind. So for those of us with ever expanding waistlines, last year will be memorable as the year of the mobile food vendor.

Street food in less pretentious terms – a movement that can be traced to the beginning of the century and a cult surrounding a car park in Peckham and Yianni Papoustis’ hugely popular Meatwagon.

Many of today’s vendors are loosely organised under the ‘eat.st’ collective umbrella, and if London has become the heart of the British street food scene, Hackney is surely its pulse.

Burgers that put even Papousits’ frequently masterful Peckham creations to shame?

Check, courtesy of Lucky Chip, who are following in the Meatwagon’s footsteps, selling their delicious beef concoctions out of a van. Clean-off-the-bone ribs translated into a portable lunch?

Mark ‘The Ribman’ Gevaux will happily be your saviour if you venture to nearby Brick Lane on a Sunday.

Authentic wood-fired pizzas? Local wunderkinds Homeslice have it covered, or at least they did until their doughy end-of-year success led them to pursue pop-up opportunities further afield, including an exciting, in-the-works project on Portobello Road.

For Gevaux, in particular, 2011 was a fantastic year, with The Long Table night market in Dalston, the success of his ‘Holy Fuck’ hot sauce, and joining up with eat.st being particular highlights.

He puts the success of street food in Hackney down to the borough’s adventurous culture and relative affordability: “One of the reasons street food has thrived in Hackney and not Kensington is that I can’t see the people of Kensington sitting in a car park eating food next to a burning oil drum,” he says.

“They are missing out. Also, I should think the rents would price many of us out. I work on such a tight profit margin my prices would have to go up so much I would be embarrassed.”

The rise of quality street food in London is going a long way to countering popular misconceptions about American-style dining. As anyone who has ever sampled proper Yankee fare will tell you, it’s a far cry from what’s peddled at McDonald’s and TGI Friday’s.

Even the humble hot dog – usually linked to dodgy vendors in Leicester Square and even dodgier tummies – has experienced a renaissance on Old Street in the hands of the permanently cheerful Abiye and his gleaming Big Apple Hot Dog cart.

According to Pizza man George Whiting of Homeslice, Hackney’s creative spirit as an important factor in the rise of its street food scene: “Hackney has a young, creative culture at the moment and I think the street food culture mirrors that,” he says. “Not only does it give talented people an opportunity to do their own thing without breaking the bank, but it helps rejuvenate otherwise disused areas.”

Driven by the passion of people like Whiting and Gevaux, the future of street food looks bright indeed. A weekend stroll down another of 2011’s big success stories, Chatsworth Road market, showcases the full spectrum of local street eats: everything from the gourmet ethical offerings at Vegan Peasant to the warming pho and inspired fusion baguettes at longstanding Hackney favourites Bahnmi11.

The taste for street food is also spreading to the upper echelons of the culinary world. Upmarket City and West End steakhouse Hawksmoor not only serve Big Apple hot dogs in their restaurants, they recently traded suits for skinny jeans and set up shop at The Long Table in Dalston.  And Abiye’s hot dogs now feature at man-of-the-moment Russell Norman’s new joint, Mishkins.

Only a few years ago, this street food revolution seemed like the pipedream of a few madmen (and women) willing to take a punt on people deserting shady burger vans for a taste of the real deal. But happen it did. And perhaps, given that sherry has morphed from Nan’s afternoon pick-me-up into a hip tipple in the space of just twelve months, that’s not so surprising after all.

Big Apple Hot Dogs – 239 Old Street, London EC1V 9EY, Tues-Fri, 12-6pm

Lucky Chip – Netil Market, Saturdays and The Seabright Arms, E2

The Ribman – Brick Lane (Tower Hamlets), Sundays

Homeslice – currently on leave, back in mid March (in between, found in King’s Cross, Brockley and soon Portobello)

Bahnmi11 – Broadway Market (Sat), Chatsworth Rd (Sun), regular appearances at King’s Cross mini-market

To find some of Hackney – and London’s – best street food vendors all in one place, check out eat.st @ King’s Cross, most weeks (reopening 11th Jan) Wed-Fri, 10-3pm.

Regular appearances from Big Apple Hot Dogs, The Ribman, and Homeslice, go to eat.st for up-to-date line-ups.

For the most current and accurate information on Hackney’s street food vendors and where they’re popping up next, follow them on Twitter:

@homesliceLDN
@theribman
@BigAppleHotDogs
@Lucky_Chip

Pharmacist Dilip Chauhan at Benjamin Chemist in Stoke Newington. Photograph: Antonio Curcetti

Stoke Newington has one of the biggest ratios in the country of small independent businesses to chain stores.

One of the great things about living and working in Hackney is the varied backgrounds of the inhabitants of the borough.

To complement this, local traders are able to provide for local requirements. And they often have something alternative, equivalent or superior for less money.

So how does health fit in with you and your local independent retailers? Very simply: you are what you eat.

Your independent retailer will supply you produce that they have got to know over the generations. Be it Asian, Afro-Caribbean, Mediterranean or other, they will have fresh produce and dry goods that are ready for use now.

Without even getting in to the argument of whether products are organic, or costly or value for money, you need to bear in mind that when you buy food you are investing in your health.

We should all consider eating fewer processed foods, less fully-cooked and more raw vegetables, better quality cuts of meat (which are lower in fat), and more oily fish such as mackerel.

Fresh meat, fish, fruit and vegetables are ready to eat now, not stored or processed for up to several months in nitrogen-controlled containers or warehouses. Have you ever wondered how fruit, vegetables and meat have lasted so long when transported from far away?

Your local fresh produce has not been stabilised for a longer shelf life by adding extra fat, sugar and salt. Your body simply does not need these stabilising additives.

So do your health a favour and visit your local shops.

Related:

Shoppers: put your money where your mouth is

Daily bread: master baker Simone at e5 Bakehouse. Photograph: Antonio Curcetti

It’s a grey but mild Sunday morning when I turn under the railway arches by a remarkably quiet London Fields.

In the secluded surrounds of Mentmore Terrace, between the usual bustle of the park and Mare Street, the contents of Arch 395 come as quite the surprise.

The e5 Bakehouse is now in its second home under these arches, having moved from one to another in May of this year. A large open kitchen engulfs most of the inner arch. In the front, a long bench-table on the left calls on customers to hop up on either side for coffees and eats in a communal environment.

A few months ago they sold summer quiches, salads and risottos. As the days shorten the winter stews are beginning to be bowled up at quite a pace, though baker Ben MacKinnon promises that whilst the seasons change their great sandwiches remain.

Ben opened the e5 Bakehouse last year having attended a course at the School of Artisan Food (SAF) in late 2009. He received great encouragement from both the group at SAF in Nottinghamshire and closer to home as members of the local community have found the e5 Bakehouse to be “a hang out, a place to chew the fat”, as Ben describes it.

They use sourdough to yeast their bread, heralding it as an ingredient which makes the loaves long-lasting, delicious and easier to digest. In addition to the traditional baguette, ciabatta and multigrain, Hackney Wild, Raisin and Walnut and Borodinsky bread are all now available.

In full view, as it is, Ben’s kitchen is buzzing as the orders continue to come in. The e5 Bakehouse is now a team of 15 including two cyclists who make deliveries all around the borough.

Formerly an energy and sustainability consultant, Ben has put prior knowledge to good use in the baking business. The Rocket Oven under the previous arch was hand built from waste materials which were found, free and recycled.

The e5 Bakehouse also cooks up a savoury bread pudding using left over bread and has worked closely with the Soil Association to provide bread-making classes in local schools, further adding to their reputation as a champion of sustainable production.

The e5 Bakehouse is open from 7am to 7pm every day and they offer a baking class each Saturday for groups of ten. Ben is also considering starting shorter evening classes.

This month they’re inviting people to come down for work Christmas parties, to learn how to bake and enjoy what’s on offer under their arch. No need to fear though, the mince pies and Christmas cakes on sale will be in the safe hands of Ben and his team.

Read the blog by Ben and the team.

Find out more about courses at:

e5 Bakehouse
Arch 395
Mentmore Terrace
Hackney
E8 3PH
Open 7 days a week, 7am – 7pm
info@e5bakehouse.com
07548 300 244