Stars align at the Empress

Chef Elliott Lidstone at the Empress

Trading the most prestigious job at a Michelin-starred restaurant in an idyllic Berkshire village for the challenges of reinventing an urban kitchen might not seem like a normal career move, but then Elliott Lidstone is no ordinary chef and Victoria Park is far from a typical corner of London.

More importantly for Lidstone and his newly transformed Lauriston Road eatery the Empress, it is one of the epicentres of Hackney’s thriving food scene.

This enviable location is exploited to the full, with meat coming from master butchers and neighbours The Ginger Pig and all manner of things aquatic from expert fishmongers Jonathan Norris across the road. The E5 Bakehouse rounds off an impressive list of local suppliers, delivering fresh sourdough (by bicycle, of course) on a daily basis. The quality of produce is evident in Lidstone’s cooking, which is modern European.

Our meal began with some of their nibbles. Crispy pigs’ ears, served with a smooth apple sauce, were like refined pork scratchings: moist and chewy rather than dry and crunchy, they maintained the crucial saltiness that is the key to a good drink accompaniment. Ham croquettes were of a similarly high standard. Specked with prosciutto and oozing  Béchamel sauce, they were equal to the offerings of some of the capital’s finest tapas bars, even those of the mighty Morito.

A starter of pearl barley and cauliflower risotto was a particularly thoughtful vegetarian option. The risotto was appropriately creamy, while the pearl barley offered sufficient bite, and spring onions perked up the taste buds. Crunchy hazelnuts and crispy fried shallots finished the dish and added extra layers of texture.

A main of slow-braised shoulder of lamb garnished elegantly with succulent monk’s beard was similarly enticing. The meat was meltingly tender and wild garlic added a zesty bite appropriate for spring. Capers boldly dotted the bulgar wheat base.

To finish, a pudding of baked cheesecake was surprisingly dense and really benefitted from the accompanying pieces of blood orange.

This was the food of a confident chef. Subtle flourishes abounded, and there was much to inspire a return – a pairing of mackerel and rhubarb, for instance, and a starter of bone marrow with snails.

The attention to detail and local focus extended to the drinks selection, with quality beers alongside an eclectic wine list that oenophiles will want to take note of. A small selection of ice-cold sherries rounds things out.

Service was attentive without being intrusive and the atmosphere was hugely family friendly, with a sizeable contingent of under-10s in particularly fine vocal form on a Saturday lunchtime. Affordable but still special – very few main courses pop over the £15 mark while weekend brunches are a steal at £7.50 and under.

It’s refreshing how Lidstone and owner Michael Buurman have taken the predominantly European concept of relaxed and affordable local dining and given it a firm British spanking. Thankfully they buck the irritatingly hip ‘no reservations’ trend as well because with food this good, who wants to wait?

For more information go to The Empress.